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Post by kealios on Oct 9, 2011 19:44:27 GMT -5
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Post by inrepose on Oct 10, 2011 6:17:37 GMT -5
I use the textured gel on the base from Windsor and Newton. I used to use pumice gel but found it was quick to go gritty and dry. The gel is smooth to apply and is easily mixed with sand so you can make it a stronger texture by varying the amount of fine sand you add to it. It actually aslo works with no sand added for speed.
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Post by kealios on Oct 10, 2011 12:15:32 GMT -5
Well crap I suppose I should have gone to University Art and not Michaels...but I had a 50% coupon and saved almost $9 I finished off the rest of the bases with no sand. I need to go back and fill in the middle of the base with white glue, but I'll keep an eye out for W&N textured gel.
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Post by evilevan on Oct 10, 2011 14:30:29 GMT -5
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Post by kealios on Oct 10, 2011 17:25:16 GMT -5
EvilEvan, that is the same method I use for just about everything I do. Sadly, I get distracted easily, and Robin here has piqued my interest in a new method I found these online for the incredible price of 50% off, and even with shipping, I'm getting 2 items (the Mineral and Sand gels) for less than their list price. Looking forward to trying them, even though PVA and sand is damn near free I'm a sucker, see? www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-galeria-texture-gel-mediums/
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Post by ogre44 on Oct 10, 2011 19:16:08 GMT -5
I like the Liquitex Natural Sand Texture Gel for basing at this scale, the grain size works really well. To break up larger bases a bit I press some sharp sand into the gel in patches.
If you're basing after painting you can mix your base color into the gel as it dries totally clear, they you just drybrush and wash if desired.
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Post by papabees on Oct 11, 2011 19:34:18 GMT -5
I like the Liquitex Natural Sand Texture Gel for basing at this scale, the grain size works really well. To break up larger bases a bit I press some sharp sand into the gel in patches. If you're basing after painting you can mix your base color into the gel as it dries totally clear, they you just drybrush and wash if desired. +1 except I use the Liquitex Resin Sand. Worked great so far.
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Post by kashirigi on Oct 14, 2011 11:09:29 GMT -5
I glue my minis onto a base with 5 minute epoxy. I slather the whole base, put the mini on for a minute or so, then stick the works into the sand. Once it's dry I brush the sand off, and because it's in epoxy and not PVA, it doesn't come off even if you throw the mini against the wall.
Sometimes I use fine ballast mixed with gesso if I've already primed something. It's nice and white, and because the ballast is covered in gesso it never comes off.
Pumice gel is rubbish for applying to bases. It only really works when you're applying it to a canvas with a palette knife.
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Scorpio
Recruit
the Star-Khan
Posts: 39
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Post by Scorpio on Oct 14, 2011 14:08:15 GMT -5
I swear by the Vallejo Pumice Base Texture, applied with toothpicks while watching bad TV.
It's more expensive than the glue-and-sand method, but it's one step and done.
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Post by kealios on Oct 15, 2011 13:26:47 GMT -5
Pumice gel by Golden was a flop, I agree, although with no sand mixed in, it wasnt so bad. W&N Mineral Gels are on their way.... PVA and sand is no-fail awesomeness. I did a few more this way and should never have doubted it. I use 5 minute epoxy for a lot, but hadnt thought to use it as a basing agent. It STINKS
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Post by tugunmojo on Oct 16, 2011 8:21:28 GMT -5
I use Flexible Floor Patch & Leveler by DAP. I bought mine a Wal-Mart, here in the USA. Probably could find in at any major hardware store. It hardens when it dries and is pretty gritty, almost like sand. You can shape it/build it up easily to add some 3D goodness to the base. The one on the left is a mini I just primed for my first Gruntz army and the one on the right is the 1st mini I painted using the Floor Patch & Leveler. Sorry for the bit of fuzziness. Could not get the camera to focus better than that for some reason . . .
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Post by kealios on Oct 19, 2011 14:25:22 GMT -5
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Post by inrepose on Oct 20, 2011 4:26:23 GMT -5
I agree it is great stuff. I just helped my son base lots of ratman for Warhammer and we used a mix of the Windsor and Newton with sand. It made it a very fast one stage process and the resulting texture looks interesting. Now I just hope I can encourage him to paint the models!
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GJD
Grunt
Bigger than a breadbox
Posts: 97
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Post by GJD on Oct 22, 2011 15:20:08 GMT -5
1. Glue mini to base (usually 2mm MDF from Warbases) 2. Paint base with GW Bestial brown. 3. Cover base with 50/50 water PVA mix 4. Dip in either Woodland Scenics medium Brown Ballast or for 6mm figures I used crushed olive pits from 4D models near tower bridge. 5. Add more 50/50 PVA water in spots and dip in green flock. 6. For larger bases i then stick on a tuft or two of Silfor tufts, and maybe a small boulder. For micro I add a small piece of clump foliage and a sprinkling of Grey ballast.
I'm going to be doing some urban wasteland bases and will swap the Bestial Brown for Charadon Granite or Codex Grey and the brown ballast for Grey ballast with a little brown mixed in. I'll skip the flock and just add a small silfor tuft or two.
G.
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Post by psyckosama on Nov 23, 2011 22:00:05 GMT -5
I agree it is great stuff. I just helped my son base lots of ratman for Warhammer and we used a mix of the Windsor and Newton with sand. It made it a very fast one stage process and the resulting texture looks interesting. Now I just hope I can encourage him to paint the models! I used the same trick but I use Liquitex brand. If you're in the US you can get it at most major craft stores for 40% off easy
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