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Post by RuneCaster_Aris on Jul 31, 2012 21:56:52 GMT -5
Does anyone know of a decent, less expensive or more readily available material for sculpting out models other then Kneadatite products?
Took the time to go out of my way to my nearest game store only to find out they aren't restocking Galeforce 9 or GW products. What would be similar?
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Post by wulfric on Aug 1, 2012 0:01:08 GMT -5
There's no cheap alternative - miliput is cheaper but very different, Procreate is just as costly.
You can buy online at a fraction of the cost - my suggestion is Troll Trader.
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Post by inrepose on Aug 1, 2012 4:51:47 GMT -5
Super Sculpy is good but needs to be baked. In the tank / aircraft 1/35th scale modelling world they use a mix of other putty type solutions. There are a few from Tamiya and I have a Valejo squeezy plastic substance which is brilliant for quick gap fills.
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Post by jeffw75 on Aug 1, 2012 9:11:55 GMT -5
You can stretch you supply of green stuff by mixing it with Sculpy. I've done it a few times with good effect, though it changes the working properties a bit. I have 2 or 3 conversions I did it on that are still holding up several years later. In the past, on the mini sculpting list, folks even had success having figs with the mix survive mold making.
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Post by RuneCaster_Aris on Aug 1, 2012 13:03:22 GMT -5
A lot of UK sites have GS/BS for less, but I live in the states. shipping costs and time for that are unacceptable and put it right back into the same price range.
I haven't heard of Miliput, done a little research. What are some pro's and con's of that stuff?
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Post by jeffw75 on Aug 1, 2012 13:06:00 GMT -5
The finish is somewhat grainy and it cures rock-hard. It's very handy for sculpting machined objects with hard-edged geometry.
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Post by RuneCaster_Aris on Aug 1, 2012 13:20:38 GMT -5
Has anyone tried "Jewlery Clay" epoxy putty?
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Post by RuneCaster_Aris on Aug 1, 2012 14:01:41 GMT -5
The finish is somewhat grainy and it cures rock-hard. It's very handy for sculpting machined objects with hard-edged geometry. I'm adding some bits to a 2.75" tall mecha, would this be okay? |
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Post by jeffw75 on Aug 1, 2012 14:23:13 GMT -5
Absolutely, but do your best to get as close to the final result as you can before the milliput sets. Shaping and sanding it once it has set gives you nice crisp edges, but is quite a chore.
Are you planning on casting the end product? I don't remember how milliput fairs in the casting process.
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Post by RuneCaster_Aris on Aug 1, 2012 14:55:52 GMT -5
No, it's a one off model for my first Gruntz army.
Until I get down the mold making process, I'm not thinking that far ahead.
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Post by inrepose on Aug 3, 2012 8:24:46 GMT -5
Someone told me that Milliput is better for gap filling than Green stuff. I do have some of the ultra-fine miliput which will dry white. I used to use it to make bases on my battletech models. I used to prod and poke the drying milliput and make little bush shapes from it. Both these bases were made using white miliput. I now tend to complete all bases with sand and the odd chunk of gravel. Like this model here:    |
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Post by RuneCaster_Aris on Aug 3, 2012 11:02:57 GMT -5
Great looking models Robin!
I'm not sure if the white or the grey would be better for sculpting out the cockpit of a mecha. Any thoughts?
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Post by Xantige on Aug 3, 2012 11:03:16 GMT -5
I use Milliput. I've actually never used Green Stuff. From my limited experience, it's good for gap filling, hands down. As for making things with it, I think that's a matter of your skill, because the material is fine. I use the cheap Terra Cotta stuff too, not the ultra-fine white stuff. I can get 4oz for about $10 and it goes a long ways. You may be able to find it in a hobby store that sells a broad range of things, like trains, dioramas, RC's, etc. I found it in the modeling, painting and terrain isles, but I've never found it in a store dedicated to wargaming or gaming.
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Post by RuneCaster_Aris on Aug 3, 2012 11:38:51 GMT -5
I asked on the milliput because Hobby Lobby near my place carries it.
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222
Recruit
Posts: 19
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Post by 222 on Aug 4, 2012 0:17:32 GMT -5
Someone told me that Milliput is better for gap filling than Green stuff. I do have some of the ultra-fine miliput which will dry white. What people usually mean when the say Milliput is good for gap-filling is that it can be watered-down and used in a way like Squadron putty or the GW liquid green stuff. You can mix it with a little bit of water and brush it onto the area you need filled. Once it is dry, you can use some high-grit sanding sticks to get rid of the excess and level the surfaces out. After it is primed/painted, it will look like one, uniform, smooth surface. Obviously, you aren't going to fill huge gaps that way, but for small seams, it is one of the easiest ways to do it. Military modelers also use it for brass-etch details that aren't quite flush with the surface, or there is some other kind of seam that needs to go away. Milliput is good for machined parts, but it does have a tendency to chip and shatter, especially at smaller sizes. It is usually easier to cut and file pieces to shape when they are small, but be aware that you might need to prep extras if something breaks, or the corner pops off as you scribe the end of a panel line. |
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