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Post by inrepose on Nov 28, 2011 18:15:39 GMT -5
Airbrushed and decals done. Now onto weathering followed by extra detailing. Made a mistake... Used tamiya airbrush paint which came out rough. Always plagued by issues with tamiya paints which I can't crack, so will stick with Vallejo model air which are smother when airbrushed. Attachments:
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Post by inrepose on Nov 28, 2011 18:17:10 GMT -5
Bigger image. Attachments:
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Post by papabees on Nov 28, 2011 23:48:08 GMT -5
Did you like those Valkyries?
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Post by inrepose on Nov 29, 2011 4:19:10 GMT -5
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Post by inrepose on Nov 29, 2011 4:20:04 GMT -5
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Post by inrepose on Nov 29, 2011 9:25:15 GMT -5
Valkyries are very nice thanks papabees. I have another set of them already painted but wanted a full set painted in a matching scheme with a set of vehicles like the above.
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Post by zombie4prophet on Nov 29, 2011 19:13:43 GMT -5
Robin,
I airbrush with Tamiya frequently and have some recipes that always go on smooth. The real issue is you must, and I MEAN MUST, use Tamiya thinner, full stop. I know that there are 'stories' about Joe the Internetz dewd using windex, Liquitex or Golden and having it turn out okay, but I take that as Apocryphal.
I thin it (55-45) and crank the pressure down to 20 - 25 lbs and have never had a problem, well except it needs to dry the full 24 or it "wears" too easily.
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Post by inrepose on Nov 30, 2011 13:41:46 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips. I do have Tamiya thinner but switched to try and stop the dry rough sandblasted results. I use Alcohol but have not thinned it that much. I do have my compressor on 20-25 though because someone said that anything higher will dry the paint mid air. It still failed again though. I think I will stick to Model Air - it works really well and is not as bad a smell as the Tamiya.
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Post by zombie4prophet on Nov 30, 2011 17:47:12 GMT -5
Hmmm, I've gotten the dry rough results with Tamiya as well, though not since I switched from Alcohol to T.Thinner, I've only ever had the dreaded "Orange Peel" a couple of times when playing with a none specific air-brush thinning medium (ie windex, alcohol, etc.b This link is fairly useful, and the most helpful bit to me was at the end, it's what made me switch to air-brush medium and specific thinner. www.craigcentral.com/models/thinning.aspJust out of curiosity, how do you get your paint to the cup and mixed? Are you using a double-action? I use an eye-dropper to transfer and mix the thinner/paint, it works a charm, but is labour intensive as cleaning is necessary. I've heard good things about model air and will try them with my next army. |
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Post by inrepose on Dec 1, 2011 3:47:54 GMT -5
With model-air I just squeeze directly into the gravity cup on my airbrush. Then I add a very small drop of model-air thinner and sometimes a drop or two of model-air satin. Then stir with a clean cocktail stick inside the gravity cup. This always results in perfect coverage, fast dry time and a rock hard finish. I did used to be a Tamiya fan but it was often difficult to get the result correct. This last weekend I thought I would use up some of my old Tamiya and I had a colour I liked so I thought with my HPC+ airbrush I would give it a go again. But I got the same issue with drying mid-air again and think I will finally make the 100% move to the Model air, rather than risk it again with Tamiya. This is the video that made me switch to Model Air paints. This chap also got me hooked on his airbrush which is an Iwata HP-C Plus airbrush and I got one as a gift for my 40th this June  www.youtube.com/user/ScaleModelMedic#p/u/20/mRUlAr2ehWM |
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Post by inrepose on Dec 1, 2011 3:58:21 GMT -5
Forgot to mention that the squeeze style bottles for Model Air make the whole airbrush experience less messy and cleaner. But you do get less in a bottle! Then again I seem to waste less and use a more sparing amount with the model air so the convenience of having a dropper style bottle is an overall benefit to the experience.
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Post by zombie4prophet on Dec 1, 2011 7:27:26 GMT -5
That was a great video, I will be buying my camo for the upcoming ARC AFV, Tanks in Model Air. Looks great and a lot less hassle.
I also use Iwata, I have an HP-CH which is a lot like the plus, except it has fine pressure control at the brush which I find indispensable, it's my detail brush. I have an Iwata Eclipse, which for a budget brush is remarkably well made, accurate and durable. The best part is that it is customizable and spare parts are dirt cheap. It doesn't hold a candle to the HP-CH for doing fine lines or detail/ control work, but when asked I always recommend it as the starter brush.
I'm off to find an online retailer of model air.
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